Archive for September, 2009
First week in Fez, Second week of Ramadan
Usually at 5pm during the holy month of Ramadan most Moroccan cab drivers are on edge. I hear it’s even worse in Cairo. Fasting isn’t so bad. Not smoking is another matter. The combination of stress, hunger, and withdrawal lead to frequent scuffles and outbursts. This phenomenon is described by the newly created Moroccan verb “t-ramdan” which is often used in the phrase “Ma t-ramdan-sh aleya!” (“Don’t Ramadan on me!”). I have decided to fast through the rest of the month for reasons that now escape me. Intensive classes in darija (the colloquial spoken here) are in full swing and I’ve moved in with a host family, The Eljai’s, in the Old City of Fez. I’m here with another Fulbrighter who we’ll call Andrew, because that’s his real name. We are frequently visited upon by a bald Parisian hairdresser named Richard (pronounced RiiiiiishARD) who runs a Bed & Breakfast next door and an eccentric couple from the U.K. who tutor my host brother and host sister in English. I like to think of my life as a Moroccan Seinfeld.
My Personal Legend
Orientation in Rabat is non-stop. I start thinking about ways to put my Fulbright proposal into action and fate introduces me to the U.S. Embassy’s Public Affairs Officer and her assistant, Ashraf, who helps run a Jazz music camp for youth in the “unreachable” parts of Morocco. I read The Alchemist just before leaving the U.S. and was immediately reminded of a line repeated throughout the book. “If you pursue your personal legend, the universe conspires in your favor.” Funny enough, the story’s protagonist also spends a transformative year in Morocco.
Departure
I am once more standing spread-eagle in a glass box with a boarding ticket in one hand and my passport in the other. I try to explain that I will be researching Gnawa-Jazz fusions in Morocco and that the “torture devices” being extracted from the depths of my bag were actually brushes for playing the drums. Unsatisfied with my answer, they ask me what kind of last name “Solaimani” is. “It’s Persian,” I replied. No response. “It’s Iranian.” Bingo.
The Gender Dimension
One of the things that has fascinated me the most while working on my Fulbright project is the role that breakdancing can play as a tool for girls’ empowerment.
In northern Uganda, like in many parts of the world, traditional gender norms dictate that women and girls be quiet, respectful and subservient to men. Girls participating in the Hip Hop Therapy Project adhere to these social norms. They are very quiet and shy.When they come to greet me (and anyone older than them), they kneel or curtsey. They speak very softly and rarely look you in the eye.
When it’s time to hit the dance floor however, they become transformed. When it comes to breakdancing, these same girls dance with as muchconfidence and attitude as the boys. I’m still amazed every time I
see one of the b-girls enter a “cypha” (freestyle dance session). Although the cyphas are largely dominated by boys, the girls jump into the middle of the circle and dance fearlessly! It’s as though the dance floor serves as a sort of equalizer. On the dance floor, girls and boys are equally respected based on their skill and talent as dancers and not on their gender.
It’s a beautiful thing to witness and I hope that some of the confidence and self-esteem the B-girls gain from their breakdance experience will translate in other aspects of their lives.
Up to four awards will be available to pursue projects around an aspect of international contemporary or popular music as a cultural force for expression. Preference will be given to creative projects that are conveyed in a dynamic fashion and are accompanied by a feasible plan. In addition to presenting unique projects on music as a global force for mutual understanding. Deadline to apply is March 1, 2012.